Telšiai County is the spiritual heart of Samogitia a region of seven hills and fierce local pride. The people here have their own dialect and a deep connection to the ancient traditions of the land. Lake Mastis sits at the center of the county providing a blue mirror for the sculptures of bears and the tall spires of the local cathedrals.
The landscape is dramatic with the Šatrija hill rising like a giant green dome over the plains where pagan festivals are still celebrated. Deep in the Žemaitija National Park you can find a former Soviet missile base that has been turned into a cold war museum hidden underground. Above the surface the Plateliai Lake offers clear water for diving and islands that hold their own secrets.
Samogitian hospitality is legendary with heavy wooden tables laden with local cheese and sour cream porridges. You can visit the many wooden churches of the region which are some of the oldest in the country and see the folk art that decorates the village cemeteries. The Telšiai County has bears and mystery. It's where the soul of the old world is still very much alive.
Telšiai (county) highlights
- Cold War Museum Explore a former Soviet underground missile base hidden deep in the forest near Plateliai. You can walk through the narrow tunnels and see the massive silos that once held nuclear weapons.
- Lake Plateliai This is the largest and deepest lake in the Samogitia region featuring seven islands and crystal clear water. It is a popular spot for yachting diving and quiet lakeside camping.
- Šatrija Hill Climb the most famous and mystical hill in the region which is said to be a gathering place for witches. The view from the top is breathtaking offering a look over the rolling green hills.
- Samogitian Museum Alka Visit this cultural hub to see a massive collection of local art and history. The outdoor section features traditional wooden farms and a unique collection of stone idols.
- Germantas Lake Follow the wooden path around the shore of this quiet lake to find hidden forest sculptures and meditation spots. The water is shallow and warm making it a favorite for local families.
- Varniai Regional Park Explore the ancient wetlands and the hillforts that were once the center of the Samogitian defense. The park is a haven for rare birds and those looking for a wild hiking experience.
- The Bear Sculptures of Telšiai Search for the dozens of small bear statues hidden throughout the regional capital. The bear is the symbol of the region and finding them all is a fun road trip challenge.
- Plateliai Manor Park Walk through the ruins of an old estate and see the massive linden trees that are hundreds of years old. The park is a peaceful spot for a break near the busy lake shore.
- Lopaičiai Mound Discover a site that is believed to be an ancient pagan observatory and sanctuary. The forest here is filled with strange stone formations and a spring that is said to be holy.
- Žemaitija National Park Drive through the dense forests to find small villages where the local dialect is still the main language. The park offers hundreds of kilometers of cycling and hiking paths.
The local Four
History of Telšiai (county)
Telšiai County is the capital of Samogitia a region that remained pagan until 1413 and maintained its own army and laws for centuries. The high hills of the Žemaitija region like Šatrija were ancient sacred sites for fire worship and astronomical observation. The local nobility established a semi autonomous duchy that successfully resisted the Polish and Swedish invasions of the 1600s.
The people were master woodcarvers creating the Stations of the Cross in Žemaitija Kalvarija which remains a major European pilgrimage site. This craftsmanship is also visible in the unique Samogitian Bear iconography found throughout the region’s stone and wood art. This fierce cultural identity has made the county a bastion of traditional language and Samogitian folk customs.
In 1962 the Soviets constructed the Plokštinė Missile Base deep in the county’s forests hiding four R-12 Dvina nuclear missiles in underground silos aimed at Western Europe. This secret facility was built by over 10,000 soldiers and remained a classified military zone until the collapse of the Soviet Union. Today the Telšiai county history spans from ancient hilltop myths to the chilling relics of the atomic age.