Buckle up for the steep curves and narrow paths of a Zagori road trip. You are in the Epirus region of grey stone and rushing blue water. The Pindus Mountains rise up like a giant wall all around your car. You cross ancient arched bridges made of rock that blend perfectly into the cliffs. The engineering of these old stone paths is a marvel to see in person. You will find yourself stopping the car just to touch the cool masonry of these historic crossings.
The Vikos Gorge is a giant crack in the earth that takes your breath away. You can park at the very rim and look down into the green void below. The villages here are made of slate and heart, built to last for a thousand years. You eat savory meat pies by a roaring fire even when the spring sun is out. The silence in these mountains is something you can almost feel in your bones. It is a land of wolves and eagles where nature is still the boss.
Drive down to the coast to find the bright blue bay of Parga. It looks like a painting with its colorful houses and hilltop castle. The roads are narrow and challenging but the views of the Ionian Sea are worth every gear shift. It is a rugged and rewarding route for any driver who loves the thrill of the climb. You leave the mountains behind only to find a Mediterranean paradise waiting at the shore.
Epirus highlights
- Vikos Gorge Drive to the Oxya lookout to see one of the deepest canyons on the planet from the very rim. The limestone walls drop straight down into a sea of green trees and a tiny blue river below. It is a giant and humbling sight that shows the raw power of the Greek mountains.
- Papigo Villages Follow the hairpin turns up the mountain to reach these twin stone villages under giant rock towers. The houses are made entirely of grey slate and look like a natural part of the high cliffs. It is the heart of the Zagori region and a dream for mountain drivers.
- Voidomatis River Park your car near the old stone bridge to see the clearest and coldest river in all of Greece. The water is a bright turquoise color and you can drink safely right from the mountain springs. The giant plane trees provide great shade for a break during your drive.
- Acheron River Springs Visit the place that the ancient Greeks believed was the main entry to the dark underworld. You can walk in the shallow water through a high white canyon that stays cool even in summer. The drive to the springs is very lush and follows the path of the river.
- Metsovo Mountain Town The town is famous for its fine wood carving and its unique smoked cheese made on the peaks. The roads are very high and often covered in white snow during the cold winter months. It feels like a high altitude alpine village with stone houses and cozy fires.
- Parga Castle Drive to the coast to see this colorful town built around a blue bay with a small island. The castle on the hill offers views of the Ionian islands and the white cliffs in the distance. The streets are steep and full of life and smell of grilled seafood.
- Dodoni Oracle Explore one of the oldest oracles in Greece set in a wide and quiet mountain valley. The ancient theater is massive and very well preserved for its age with a view of the peaks. The site is quiet and very spiritual and feels far away from the modern world.
- Syvota Coves Follow the coastal road to find tiny islands and hidden blue lagoons with very clear water. You can park near the water and take a small boat to reach secret beaches only seen from the sea. It is often called the Caribbean of Epirus because of the bright colors.
- Kipina Monastery See this amazing monastery built directly into the face of a vertical grey cliff in the mountains. It looks like it is hanging in the air above a deep gorge with a tiny bridge for entry. The drive through the Tzoumerka peaks is epic and full of grand views.
- Ioannina Lake Drive around the large lake to see the reflection of the silver mountains in the still water. You can take a boat to the small island in the center which is the only lived in lake island. The history of the old castle and Ali Pasha is everywhere you look.
The local Four
History of Epirus
The region of Epirus was home to the most ancient oracle in Greece at Dodoni. On a Zagori road trip, you see the massive theater built by King Pyrrhus in the 3rd century BC, which could hold seventeen thousand people. Pyrrhus became famous for his campaigns against Rome in 280 BC using twenty war elephants. His victories were so bloody and costly that they gave rise to the phrase Pyrrhic victory to describe a success that ruins the winner.
The city of Ioannina was the capital of Ali Pasha, who ruled the region as a nearly independent state from 1788 to 1822. He was a powerful figure who corresponded with Napoleon Bonaparte and hosted the poet Lord Byron in his lake palace. The island in the middle of Lake Pamvotis is the only lived-in lake island in Greece and was the site of Ali Pasha’s assassination. The city became a global center for silver smithing and fine jewelry during this era.
The Zagori area is famous for its 46 stone villages and 48 arched bridges built by master masons. These builders used a secret professional language called Koudaritika to keep their construction techniques hidden from competitors. During the winter of 1940, the Pindus Mountains were the site of the first Allied victory against the Axis powers. Local women carried ammunition and supplies on their backs through deep snow to help the soldiers on the peaks.