Enter Varaždin county to see a world of silk and stone. This is the top spot for a Baroque Croatia road trip. The main town is full of bright palaces painted yellow and pink. These colors were very popular hundreds of years ago. Park near the Old Town fortress and walk across the drawbridge. This white castle once protected the capital of the country from invaders. The gardens are full of old statues and hidden paths. You can spend hours exploring the town square and its beautiful clock tower. The streets are paved with smooth stones that have been there for centuries.
The hills around the city grow the famous Varaždin cabbage. This cabbage is so good it has its own festival every autumn. This area is also known for pumpkin seed oil which locals call "black gold." Visit a local mill to see the dark green oil being pressed from the seeds. It has a rich nutty taste that goes perfectly with a fresh salad. You can see many angel statues on the church walls in the city. People call it the "City of Angels" because of this beautiful art. Every corner has a hidden courtyard or a piece of history waiting for you to find it.
Stop at the Varaždin Cemetery which is a world-famous park of artfully shaped thuja trees. For a hidden gem drive to Lepoglava to see the Pauline monastery and the delicate lace-making museum. Visit the Arboretum Opeka in Marčan to see the giant Caucasian fir trees planted in the 19th century. If you visit in late August the "Špancirfest" festival turns every street into a stage for street performers. Grab a bag of "klipići" (salted dough rolls) from a local bakery to fuel your walk through the fortress bastions.
Varaždin (county) highlights
- Varaždin Old Town Fortress This bright white castle is the center of the old capital city and its history. Walk the high grass mounds that once protected the town from huge armies of invaders. The inner museum holds old weapons and silk clothes from the royal days.
- Varaždin Cemetery Park Visit this world famous park where the trees are trimmed into perfect green walls. It is more like a garden than a cemetery and feels very calm and beautiful. The high thuja trees create a maze of green paths that are perfect for a quiet walk.
- Lepoglava Lace Museum Stop in this quiet town to see the delicate lace made by hand with tiny bobbins. The local monastery is also a great place to see old paintings and stone art. You can watch local women create complex patterns that look like thin spider webs.
- Arboretum Opeka Explore the largest park in the region filled with rare trees from all over the world. The paths lead you past a ruined palace and through tunnels of tall green plants. It is a wild and romantic place that changes colors every season.
- Gaveznica Fossil Volcano Visit the only stone volcano in the country where you can find semi precious stones. The site shows how the earth looked millions of years ago when fire ruled. You can walk through the old dig site and find pieces of agate stone.
- Ivanščica Mountain Trails Drive to the foot of the highest mountain in the north for a hike to the top. The views from the peak look over the hills of Zagorje and into Slovenia. There is a small lodge at the top where you can eat warm bean soup.
- Drava River Embankment Follow the long gravel roads along the river for a peaceful drive near the water. You can see many birds and small fishing spots hidden in the tall river grass. The river is wide and slow and perfect for watching the sunset over the water.
- Varaždinske Toplice Ruins See the remains of an ancient Roman spa where the hot water still flows. The site has a museum with stone statues and old coins found in the pools. You can still see the original stone pipes that moved the warm water.
- Jerovec Pottery Village Stop at the local workshops to see how clay is turned into pots and bird whistles. You can try making your own art or buy a unique gift from the masters. This craft has been kept alive by the same families for many generations.
- Ludbreg Center of the World Visit the main square where a metal circle marks the center of the globe. The town also has a beautiful castle and a park by the Bednja river. Many people visit the local church to see a famous religious relic from the past.
The local Four
History of Varaždin (county)
Varaždin was once the glamorous capital of Croatia until a catastrophic fire in 1776 sent the government packing. Before the flames, the city was a Baroque Versailles filled with silk-clad nobles, grand balls, and high-stakes politics. The aristocracy spent fortunes building urban palaces that rivaled those in Vienna, creating an atmosphere of permanent celebration and power. The white fortress of the Old Town still stands today, guarded by thick grass mounds and deep moats.
In the hills of Lepoglava, the history is delicate and dangerous. While the men were off at war, the women created Lepoglava Lace, a craft so complex it is now protected by UNESCO. This intricate work became a symbol of national identity, often used to decorate the altars of the country's most significant cathedrals. This same town also houses a monastery that once held a secret prison, blending the world of high art with the harsh reality of history.
Nature here is literally prehistoric. You can visit the Gaveznica volcano, the only place in Croatia where you can find semi-precious agate stones formed by ancient lava. These stones were highly prized by 19th-century jewelers who traveled from as far as Trieste to trade for the finest specimens. The roads are lined with green walls of trimmed trees and 18th-century mansions, making it the most elegant driving route in the northern plains.