In Primorje-Gorski Kotar the world changes very fast. This is the Croatia mountain to sea route. One minute you are under the dark pines of Risnjak National Park. Here lynx and bears live among the rocky peaks and cold streams. Then the road drops through tunnels toward the Adriatic sea. Suddenly you smell the salt air and see the blue Bakar bay below you. The temperature rises by ten degrees as you leave the mountains for the coast. You will see the trees change from pines to silver olive groves in just a few miles. It is one of the most exciting drives in the country.
The mountains have deep lakes like Fužine that look like mirrors. You can take a boat ride on the lake or walk the path around it. You can explore Vrelo cave which is easy to walk because it is completely flat. This makes it perfect for families and older travelers. When you reach the coast you will find the Opatija Riviera. This area is full of 19th-century villas and tall palm trees. The mix of mountain forest and sea coast is very beautiful and unique. You can go from a snowy peak to a sunny beach in less than an hour.
Take the ferry from Valbiska to explore the Beli Visitor Centre on Cres to see the rare Eurasian Griffon vultures. For a forest escape visit the Lokvarka Cave which is one of the deepest tourist caves in Croatia at 275 meters. If you are staying on the coast walk the Lungomare promenade between Volosko and Lovran for 12 kilometers of seaside views. Eat at a "konoba" in Kastav for a view of the entire Kvarner Bay while trying presnac (sheep cheese cake). The old Louisiana road between Delnice and Rijeka is the most scenic route for drivers who love hairpins.
Primorje Gorski Kotar highlights
- Risnjak National Park Drive into the high mountains to walk the Leska trail through the deep pine forest. You might see a lynx or a deer near the cold mountain streams and rocks. The air is very fresh and the moss on the ground is deep and soft.
- Fužine Lake Path Visit the mountain town built around a blue lake that looks like a giant mirror. You can walk the entire way around the water under the shade of the trees. The surrounding hills are covered in thick forest that stays green all year.
- Vrelo Cave in Fužine Explore this underground world that is totally flat and easy for everyone to walk. It has a cold river running through it and beautiful stone shapes on the walls. The cave is one of the only ones in Europe without any stairs or climbs.
- Kastav Old Town Park on the hill to walk through the stone gates of this ancient forest city. The view from the square shows the whole sea and the islands far below. Narrow stone streets lead you past small shops and very old stone houses.
- Vrbnik Cliff Town Drive to the island of Krk to see a village built on a high stone cliff. It has the narrowest street in the world and serves a special golden wine. The view of the sea from the town walls is one of the best on the island.
- Beli Griffin Center Visit the island of Cres to see the giant vultures that live on the sea cliffs. The center helps save these rare birds and has a very old stone village. You can walk down to a hidden beach through a forest of giant oak trees.
- Zeleni Vir Waterfall Take the forest road to find a huge cave with a waterfall falling over the entrance. The water is bright green and the air in the canyon is always cool. A small bridge leads you to a cave where the water stays very cold.
- Trsat Castle in Rijeka Climb the stone steps to the fortress that guards the city and the sea. The courtyard has statues of dragons and offers a perfect spot to watch the sunset. It is a place filled with history and stories of ancient noble lords.
- Gorski Kotar Glass Bridge Walk on the high lookout point over the Kupa river valley for a thrill. You can see the river winding through the deep green canyon far beneath your feet. The view stretches all the way to the mountains on the border of Slovenia.
- Lubnice Village on Cres Drive to this stone village that sits on a cliff four hundred meters above the sea. It is one of the oldest places on the island with a great view. The houses are made of grey stone and have stood there for many centuries.
The local Four
History of Primorje Gorski Kotar
This county is a vertical world where you can climb from the salt spray of the sea to a snowy mountain peak in thirty minutes. For centuries, the Frankopan noble family ruled these cliffs, building a chain of stone castles to control the trade routes. Their strategic marriage alliances with the neighboring Zrinski family created a powerful block that often challenged the authority of the Habsburg emperors. They were the most powerful family in the land until a failed rebellion led to their execution.
Deep in the Green Heart, Gorski Kotar was once called the Devil’s Garden because the forests were so thick and the winters so brutal. Woodcutters carved lives out of the pine woods, building steep-roofed houses to survive the heavy snow. These isolated communities developed their own dialects and wood-working techniques that are still preserved in the mountain villages today. The region provided the giant oak logs used to build the foundations of the city of Venice.
The coast is a different story of sailors and shipyards. Rijeka became one of the busiest ports in the Austro-Hungarian Empire; inventions like the torpedo were tested in these waters. This industrial boom attracted workers from across the globe, turning the city into a cosmopolitan hub of technology and transit. Today, you drive across the bridge to the island of Krk, where the oldest Slavic alphabet was carved into stone nearly a thousand years ago.