The wild heart of the country is found in Lika-Senj. This is where the Velebit mountain road trip begins. Huge grey peaks look down on the village of Smiljan. This is the birthplace of Nikola Tesla. You can visit his old lab and see how he worked with electricity. There is a museum that shows his most famous inventions. The wind here is very strong and shapes the rocks into strange towers. You can drive through high mountain passes to see the islands floating in the sea. The mountains act like a wall between the cold interior and the warm coast.
The Plitvice Lakes are hidden in deep forests nearby. Sixteen lakes spill into each other to create many beautiful waterfalls. You can walk on wooden paths that go right over the rushing water. You can also visit a bear sanctuary in Kuterevo. Here young bears who lost their mothers are cared for in a natural setting. At the foot of the cliffs you can find the Zavratnica fjord. A sunken ship from World War II sits in the clear blue water. You can see the whole wreck from the walking path that clings to the rocks. It is a hauntly beautiful sight in the middle of a quiet bay.
Drive the Majstorska cesta pass over the Tulove Grede peaks for the most iconic limestone views in the Balkans. For a quiet break stop in Gospić at the Museum of Lika to see traditional shepherd tools and woven "torba" bags. Visit the Gacka River mills in Sinac to see how flour is still ground by water power and buy a bag of organic rye. If you are heading to the coast stay in Senj to explore the Nehaj Fortress which was the home of the Uskok pirates. For a local feast order "Lika lamb" roasted under a heavy iron bell.
Lika Senj highlights
- Plitvice Lake Bridges Walk the wooden paths that go right over the top of sixteen blue lakes and falls. It is the most famous park in the country and feels like a water world. You can take a boat across the largest lake to see the biggest waterfall.
- Zavratnica Fjord Take the stone path along the sea to find a hidden bay with a sunken ship. The water is so clear you can see every part of the wreck from the land. The high cliffs on both sides protect the bay from the wind and the waves.
- Kuterevo Bear Refuge Visit the mountain village where young bears are cared for in a natural forest home. You can see them playing and learn how to protect the wild animals of Lika. Local volunteers from all over the world help run the sanctuary.
- Tesla Birthplace in Smiljan See the house and the lab where the world famous inventor was born and raised. The park has moving models of his inventions and a very old wooden church. You can see how the lightning in the mountains inspired his work.
- Majstorska Cesta Pass Drive the historic stone road that crosses the high peaks of the Velebit mountain range. The jagged white rocks and the blue sea below make it a stunning route. It is one of the most famous roads for people who love driving.
- Gacka River Mills Stop at the springs to see wooden mills grinding grain using the power of the water. The river is famous for being one of the cleanest and coldest in Europe. You can buy a bag of fresh flour ground right before your eyes.
- Senj Nehaj Fortress Explore the thick walls of the castle built by pirates to defend the coast from ships. It sits on a hill and looks out over the stormy sea. The museum inside shows the weapons and tools used by the fierce pirate guards.
- Northern Velebit Peaks Drive to the high weather station to see the famous stone circle of the mountain. The hiking trails take you through rocks that look like they belong on the moon. The botanical garden at the top shows rare plants that only grow here.
- Grabovača Cave Park Visit the only cave park in the world with many underground halls to explore. The guides show you hidden tunnels and giant stone pillars made by the water. The park also has a high lookout tower with a view of the river.
- Cerovac Caves These are the largest caves in the country with three levels of deep stone tunnels. You can see the bones of cave bears that lived there thousands of years ago. The stone shapes inside the halls look like giant curtains made of rock.
The local Four
History of Lika Senj
Lika-Senj is a county of wolves and giants, featuring the most rugged mountains in the country. This is where Nikola Tesla was born, inspired by the violent lightning storms of the Velebit range to eventually harness the world. As a boy, Tesla spent hours watching the mountain streams, dreaming of ways to convert the power of falling water into energy for mankind. The landscape is so wild that bears and lynx still roam the forests, just a few miles from the main highway.
On the coast, the town of Senj was the headquarters of the Uskoks (fierce pirate guerrillas) who fought both the Turks and the Venetians. Their Nehaj fortress sits on a hill like a stone fist, designed to withstand cannon fire and the Bura, a wind so fast it can flip trucks on the bridge. The Uskoks were known for their daring nighttime raids, using their superior knowledge of the jagged coastline to escape pursuit. It is a region of raw, unpolished power.
Inland, the Plitvice Lakes are a geological miracle of living stone. The water creates travertine barriers that grow and change every year, forming sixteen lakes that spill into each other. These barriers are formed by a unique combination of algae and moss that calcifies over time, creating a constantly evolving natural dam system. Driving through Lika feels like exploring a different planet, with vast empty plains, jagged white rocks and the purest water in Europe.